Stone Island’s Heat Reactive Jacket
Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) was an Italian garment engineer and vogue designer most well-known because the founding father of the apparel brands Stone Island and C.P. Firm. Osti’s products had been a mix of his own innovations and design ideas he received from learning navy clothes, work-, and sportswear.
1 Early years
three nineteen nineties
5 Product innovations 5.1 Four-process printing on fabric (1970)
5.2 Garment dyeing (1979)
5.3 Brushed wool (1987)
5.Four Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
5.5 Ice jacket (1991)
5.6 Micro (1992)
5.7 Thermojoint (1993)
5.Eight Technowool (1995)
Massimo Osti was born and raised in Bologna, Italy. He became a graphic designer and labored within the promoting enterprise. His profession within the vogue business began in the early 1970s, when he designed a T-shirt assortment featuring positioned prints. He was the first to use new techniques just like the four-colour process and silkscreen which are used for producing T-shirt. Following the success of this first T-shirt collection, he accepted the provide to design a whole Men’s assortment and turned an equity companion in the corporate he would identify ‘Chester Perry’ (later renamed the ‘C.P. Company’).
During this interval, Osti laid the foundations for a inventive philosophy solely based on experimentation. The first innovation he can be responsible for within the clothes business was garment dyeing, a course of that fully revolutionized the sector. It was based upon the concept of different materials in finished garments reacting differently to the same dye bath. Osti found that garment dyeing creates interesting tone-on-tone results. This explicit dyeing approach became typical for Osti’s C.P. Company. In 1981, he launched “Boneville”, a new model alongside the existing CP Firm and CP Company Baby collections.
Ongoing analysis on ending methods and materials led to yet another clothes line in 1982: Stone Island. The first assortment was made entirely from a revolutionary new fabric that inspired from the tarps used by truck drivers. The ‘used’ look of this highly resistant, two-tone, reversible fabric was obtained by stone washing. This new collection was so successful that it sold out at every location inside 10 days.
In 1984, Osti relinquished his shares of CP Firm to GFT, however stayed on as president. He and his team devoted themselves to product growth and communication methods for the company. In 1985, he grew to become the editor of CP Magazine, an additional-massive format catalog/magazine that was offered at newspaper stands. It featured photographs of every garment in the CP Company collections and visualized the C.P. life-style completely. A circulation of forty,000 copies per assortment proved that this unusual promoting software was certainly efficient. It began a trend that would later be adopted by many other firms in the trade.
1987 was an necessary year in Osti’s career. He invented and presented Rubber Flax and Rubber Wool – linen and wool with a skinny, rubber coating. The rubber made the supplies waterproof, improved their resistance and added a totally new feel and appear to the garments. In the identical 12 months Osti experimented with brushed combed wool for the first time. In the present day all mills use this process for processing woolen textiles, the same process Osti invented in 1987.
The year also saw the start of the colour changing Ice Jacket. In collaboration with ITS, Osti employed state-of-the-artwork technological research to create this new fabric which changed coloration by temperature variations. That very same year, his constant commitment to experimentation earned Massimo Osti an invitation to symbolize the Italian clothing industry at an occasion commemorating the 750th anniversary of Berlin’s founding, the 150th anniversary of textile manufacturing and his personal fifteenth year within the business. For the occasion, an exhibit was held inside the Reichstag building in Berlin.
In 1988, Massimo Osti’s designs developed a new technique of communication with the public through the CP Firm sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race. The corporate also confirmed its assist of the Rainforest Foundation, the inspiration spearheaded by Sting and Raoni, chief of the Kayapo tribe in Amazonia, whose objective was to raise worldwide awareness of deforestation within the Amazon Rainforest.
1991 marked the opening of a CP store in New York’s historical Flatiron Building, plus the launch of yet another iconic garment within the Stone Island line: the Reflective Jacket. This jacket was made from an modern materials, which was the fruit of technological analysis carried out in Japan. The material mixed waterproof fabric with a really thin layer of glass microspheres, which mirrored even the weakest gentle sources with astonishing effectiveness.
In 1993, a partnership with Allegri gave rise to Left Hand. This new model was characterized by another unique materials, a non-woven fabric made from pressed polyester and nylon fibers which, like felt, could possibly be used with raw edge stitching. The following yr, Osti founded Massimo Osti Production, a company that would reap the benefits of the experience and successes accrued from 20 years’ value of formal and technical innovations. In 1995, the ST ninety five line was launched and in 1996, Osti began a collaboration with Superga, which consisted in designing a collection of image-defining garments.
Just two years later in 1998, a brand new company was based to produce and distribute the OM Project model, the collaboration with the Frattini Group. This new line of clothes would also be characterized by way of revolutionary fabrics:
– Electric-j – a extremely resistant material made of polyester and copper fibers
– Cool Cotton – whose natural look is derived from its cotton part whereas its other element
– Cool max – a hollow fiber that absorbs bodily moisture and wicks it outwards
– Mag Defender – a canvas manufactured from polyester and carbon fibers whose extremely resistant weave shields its wearer from magnetic fields
– Steel – an “urban armor” that includes a nylon canvas which is woven with twisted cotton and stainless steel, making it extremely resistant to cuts and tears.
In 1999, Massimo Osti began the collaboration with Dockers Europe to design a brand new line of technical pants called Tools for Legs. Of the technical supplies used on this assortment, a special mix of Kevlar stood out particularly; its increased softness and functionality made it applicable to its application in garment manufacturing.
Among Osti’s final initiatives was the ICD line. Created in 2000 due to a collaboration with Levi’s, it offered a vast array of high efficiency technical outerwear. This collection was then supplemented by the ICD+ line which, due to an agreement with Philips, featured outwear garments which came equipped with a cell phone, mp3 participant, and accompanying headphones and microphone which had been all wired to the garment itself. It was the world’s first industrial example of wearable technology.
Massimo Osti died in 2005 and his legacy lives on today by means of Ed Lehan. Also stone island age 12 the Massimo Osti Archive, a textile archive which incorporates 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from roughly 300 textile mills and garment finishing firms from all over the world.
4-process printing on fabric (1970)
A Bologna-based firm commissioned Massimo Osti to design printed T-shirts, one thing he had never performed earlier than. On the age of 25, Osti was in close contact with the social and creative movements of the time and profoundly conscious of the adjustments taking place in society. On the time of his first forays into the world of vogue, Osti’s background in promoting led him to make use of his graphics know-how as a starting point for tackling his first challenges. “For these T-shirts I used processes for printing on paper to get the finished result, strategies like silkscreen, placed prints, four-course of printing, photocopy, etc. It was the primary time anything like that was carried out in Italy. I remember that I needed to silkscreen the first T-shirts myself before convincing the technician to do them”
Garment dyeing (1979)
“I found that two totally different materials absorbed and reacted in a different way to the dye when dyed simultaneously, thereby creating fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ results.” This is the idea of garment dyeing, a process that revolutionized the whole trade on the time, each because of the unusual look it produced and due to the significant lower in prices it represented.
Most important traits: each garment is dyed, as a substitute of the supplies they had been made from. Fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ results, and simplification of dyeing course of.
Brushed wool (1987)
Osti took this special process, which was originally used on cotton, and experimented with it on wool until he refined the process by means of analysis and tailored it particularly to this noble fiber, revolutionizing the business.
Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
These materials, created by Osti, grew to become very fashionable in the textile business. They took noble and traditional fabrics like linen and wool and granted them a new look and texture, permitting them to drape and fall differently. The special rubber coating not only enhanced their natural characteristics, but additionally grants elevated performance, comparable to resistance to water and permits them to remain adaptable to patterns.
Main characteristics: basic materials looked renewed and responded in a new solution to put on; also they became extra weatherproof.
Ice jacket (1991)
A jacket manufactured from a revolutionary material that changes shade with temperature variations as a result of its particular chemical composition. The “Ice Jacket” is also highly waterproof and windproof.
Essential characteristics: jacket modifications shade by temperature variation. *e.g., pink to gray)
Key-merchandise: First ICE Jacket 1992
This fabric was first introduced in the LEFT HAND collection and is made from pressed microfiber and nylon fibers. The urgent is a traditional method, initially used to make paper. This process grants the fabric an unmistakable “deerskin” hand and wonderful breath skill.
Major traits: pure deerskin look, however warmer really feel.
This material was additionally used within the LEFT HAND assortment. Its principal traits are total resistance to water and wear and as much as eighty% safety from nuclear radiation.
Used for the first time within the F/W 1996 assortment by “Massimo Osti Production,” this combination of wool and nylon jersey is put on-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and durability of wool.
Chester Perry (1971-77)
C.P. Child (1978-93)
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