Clothing, Century, Women, Males, Fashion, New, Physique, Historical past, Collection
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Massimo Osti, lengthy synonymous with C.P. Firm, represented what C.P. Company stood for. He selected to live and work in his native Bologna, Italy, a college city populated by a younger, worldwide set. C.P. Firm’s headquarters is situated in the Emilia-Romagna area of Italy, renowned for its cuisine and local produce. As such, it—and Massimo Osti—were far faraway from the hustle and bustle of Milan.
While Italian style designers have a propensity for producing myths round their collections, Osti’s strategy was in stark contrast to this prevailing trend. Osti conjured up no myths and was proud of it. He fashioned his collection not only from an aesthetic point of view however, firstly, from a functional one. Osti caught near his roots, and lived an understated way of life. Not like a few of his better-known counterparts, he was never in the limelight. He didn’t hold vogue shows, and his catalogues highlighted only clothes, with no glamorous fashions or exotic locations and no fancy studio lighting.
Osti was against artifice in any kind; he did not consider himself to be a true designer, simply occupied with mastering the technical problem of his line—specifically, the fabrics and finishes. He showed a new line twice a year but never referred to his output as a set; quite, they were “items.” There was by no means any uniting theme or story in the C.P. Company line.
The designer’s working uniform consisted of a navy C.P. silk shirt and a pair of navy Stone Island jeans, with maybe a navy tie. Osti beloved to sail and even had a soccer discipline on his property. Therefore, as a sportsman, he understood the need for performance sportswear. All his woven fabrics for C.P. Firm have been garment-washed, and he started utilizing this process long before it was the trend in the men’s sportswear industry. stone island stockists glasgow He was also one in all the first to use water-repellent coatings on his fabrics, a process now standard on outerwear.
What would in any other case be a delicate item—such as a burlap linen raincoat—would be coated with polyurethane to make it virtually indestructible. An indigo denim shirt would be garment-bleached and enzyme-washed to have the feel of silk. Such was the essence of Osti’s philosophy, if he have been keen to articulate one: to take positive, even luxurious fabrics, and to deal with them in such a approach that they could be worn nonchalantly—or to take widespread fabrics and provides them a luxury end.
C.P. Firm has been the essence of informal elegance and rugged versatility. It’s stylish, never trendy, splendid for the man with good style, a modicum of style, and a love of the finer things in life. Men who wear C.P. Company are averse to displaying designer labels, preferring as an alternative to look effectively dressed in an unself-conscious way. They even have an intellectual bent and aren’t impressed with flashy things. In different words, C.P. Firm’s prospects were very very similar to Osti, who selected the Flatiron Constructing as the location for the corporate’s New York retailer not solely due to its architectural and historical significance, however because it was barely off the beaten path, setting C.P. Company apart from the pack.
For over 20 years, Osti did for men’s sportswear what maybe Balenciaga did for women’s couture. He honed it almost to a science, changing into the standard against which many different sportswear firms measured themselves. There’s a robust likelihood that any novelty in ending or dyeing one could encounter in the men’s market has been tested—and in all probability developed—first by Osti. He was as thorough as they are available in the area of fabric research, having at his disposal an archive of tens of hundreds of items of used clothing, what he known as his “inspirational muse,” and the “conscience” of the previous. He deeply respected the styles of the past and strove to good them for the longer term. Though his fabrics had been novel, his silhouettes were consistently classic, with an interesting lived-in quality.
For many years, the C.P. Firm label carried the slogan “Ideas from Massimo Osti,” and that in itself spoke volumes concerning the pragmatic strategy of the road’s designer. Yet C.P. Company underwent major adjustments in each possession and design leadership at the tip of the twentieth century. Each the corporate and its sister brand, Stone Island, formerly owned by the Italian apparel powerhouse GFT, have been purchased in 1993 by Carlo and Christina Rivetti, who operated the brands by way of their Sportswear Company of Italy. By the mid-1990s, founder Massimo Osti had moved on to different endeavors, and the designer Moreno Ferrari was established in his place. Regardless of these modifications, the C.P. Firm model retained its deal with technical innovation, especially in the event of new materials, and fashion designs adopted the dictates of the fabric.
In the mid-nineteen nineties, the corporate publicized its plans for a broad retail enlargement, spearheaded by its Flatiron district store in New York. Over the years, it honed its expectations, opening flagship shops solely in its two leading markets, the UK (London) and Italy (Milan), together with a smaller store in St. Tropez, France. The brands were also featured in freestanding stores in nations reminiscent of Japan and Korea. The new York outlet was shuttered in 1996. Though C.P. Company has periodically talked of opening another retailer in New York, it had not yet come to move as of 2001.
The firm’s retail areas feature both C.P. Company and Stone Island branded sportswear gadgets for men in addition to C.P.’s women’s sportswear vary. As of 2000, the corporate bought by way of a complete of 420 retail doors worldwide, together with Bloomingdale’s and Barneys New York based on the Day by day Information Report in January 2000.
Ferrari became Osti’s focus, emphasizing sturdiness and utilitarianism over fashion fads. In his fall-winter 1998/1999 collection, he reinvigorated a few of the traits that had helped boost the model’s sales in the 1980s, notably a collection of blousons designed for cautious urban consumers. As DNR described the line in February 1998, it included one item (referred to as “Metropolis”) with an antismog mask, computer, cell phone, and pockets for documents; another (“Life”) with a noiseproof headset; and a 3rd (“Munch”) with a personal security alarm. The last was inspired by Edouard Munch’s well-known painting, The Scream.
The yr 1998 additionally brought the introduction of fabrics composed of copper, steel, carbon, and titanium initially intended to provide a futuristic slant to the garments. The Italian journal Interni noted in June 2001 that these materials also offered performance advantages and a particular appear and feel (gentle-reflective, motion-highlighting, crumpled-casual vintage) making them an integral a part of the collection at present.
For the 2001 season, C.P. Firm’s popularity for innovation moved to the foreground with its Transformables line, consisting of inflatable gadgets that change nearly instantaneously from wearable objects into furniture. Packaged with an air compressor that may very well be plugged into a automotive’s lighter, the road included jackets that change into armchairs, mattress-tent combinations, sleeping bags, hammocks, and inflatable seats, representing the ultimate in convenient and minimalist travel gear.